Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

August to October, U.S. to China to U.S.

Typically I have gotten way behind on this.

A couple quick photos from summer.

Dan’s family reunion picture – so fun to all catch up!

and Judd sweeping the club tennis tournaments for the third year in a row. I was sorry to already be back in China and couldn’t cheer him on.

When I got back, my friend Dong and I went to The Red Brick Museum – which is the most beautiful museum -made at an old red brick factory with an amazing garden which I highlighted during my first year in China. We saw a really interesting show by Tomas Saraceno. In one dark room glass cases are spot-lighted to show glowing spider webs, in another wires  are woven through out large room  and when visitors touch a wire it plays a note (picture above). It was lovely.

Afterwards we had lunch overlooking lovely garden.

Later in August we hosted our local Kehillat shabbat dinner. It was nice to catch up with many of the members we hadn’t seen all summer.

Morton playing in an Ultimate tournament.

Morton is taking a “Passion Project” class in which he has proposed setting up a permanent Disc Golf course on the school property (at this point in time he actually has I believe three holes installed on campus). Anyway, as he had never actually played Disc Golf, I proposed we find a course and play – which we did. We found a course not too far from where we live in a very large park. It took us quite a while to find the course in the park but we had fun exploring the park and ultimately playing – Morton lost three of his new discs into the lakes! Apparently that’s part of the sport.

Morton got me to take him to Jenny Wang’s, the nearby foreign food market, in search of dessert. We ran into friends who told us they always come to this market to buy cereal. Morton talked me into Reeses Puffs for dessert. We sent this picture to Celia who wondered who had abducted her mother – as she knew I would never buy that cereal. (I thought it tasted nasty. Morton disagrees).

This fall I reached out to parents of Morton’s friends to see who would be interested in a weekly Saturday night, no screens, get together for the boys. It’s been really great – I highly recommend it – but this is a picture of the group one night out for dinner.

Back in College, my roommate Betty studied in Beijing and at the end of her semester, the Chinese student she was paired up with, Wang Lei, told Betty she was trying to get out of the country and needed a sponsor.  Betty helped her and Wang Lei has been living abroad ever since. Wang Lei contacted me in September to tell me she’d be passing through Beijing to see her mother and would love to get together. It has been around 20 years since I had seen her. It was super fun catching up and seeing her being overwhelmed by all the changes in Beijing – And funny seeing the trouble she was also having navigating necessary Chinese Apps and banking that I thought was only difficult because I don’t read Mandarin. Apparently that’s only a small part of the difficulty!

At ISB I put together an art show of staff and parent’s art work. I got one of the highschool art teachers to take it on with me. I had no idea if we’d get many submissions but we were overwhelmed. It was great! It was also interesting how there were many submissions of paintings of master works – many of them quite lovely – but I can’t imagine people in the United States would submit copies of master works. In China there is a much stronger tradition of copying. It was very surprising and interesting. We decided to make a special section of the show for these works.

Sign for the show and my friend Han Bin whose painting was chosen for the poster.
The opening

We had ordered pedestals to be made special for the show. The morning of the opening, the pedestals still hadn’t arrived. Yvette, my collaborator on the show, called the art department at her old school. They said we could borrow their pedestals but they weren’t in good shape. We quickly borrowed a van, during her free period drove over to that school, picked up a ton of pedestals – and they were in bad shape. I spent the rest of the day quickly sanding and painting the pedestals – installing them just in time for the opening!

Busy painting pedestals/plynths – Dan brought me lunch
Dan and I at the opening
Yvette, my collaborating highschool teacher, and Danae, a local artist who came and said a few words.
Morton again played volleyball this fall
Walking around a park in Beijing, I just loved all the translations on the signs! – so poetic!

A friend invited me to see the Dior show which everyone was talking about. I had seen the beautiful show in Brooklyn and thought it might be interesting to see how the show differed in Beijing. The first surprise came when we were waiting to get in and my friend told me the tickets were free. I was very surprised. She explained that if they charged for the tickets maybe they’d get 1000 visitors but with free tickets maybe they’d get 10,000 visitors and they’d sell expensive perfume in the gift shop and make much more money. I’m sure she was correct and that set the tone for the entire show. In Brooklyn, the show went through the different Dior designers, showing their designs, organized so viewers could understand their different influences and styles. The dresses were beautiful and the way the show was laid out was informative and gorgeous. In the Beijing show, the layouts of each room were stunning. In one you could smell all the different flowers used to make their perfumes. In another room they created a Yoyoi Kusama Infinity Room installation with perfume bottles. It was all amazing but about marketing perfume. So different!

Dior show installation

At the school art show an alumni parent submitted a beautiful coat she had made. I went to where she shows her work, bought a green coat, had some wonderful tea. It was so refreshing to see her creations. I have seen almost no crafts in China. When I asked her about other craft people she brought me to her neighbor who designs the dishes for the official state meals. They were amazing to see – and fun to see photos of all the world’s leaders eating from his different dishes – each important meal he is asked to make new dishes!

At last minute our lives were upturned, causing us to head back to the States for a very quick visit (especially for Dan and Morton who had to be back at school in one week).

Right before leaving we were told we would have to delay our departure a day as we were invited and could not refuse to 75th anniversary of the Peoples Republic of China. We weren’t too thrilled to change our plans but it was quite an experience. The comings and goings of the guests was very controlled. We went with the school leadership group. We live on the way north side of Beijing. We had to meet a school bus at the school to take us south of center city to the official pick-up spot, the Friendship Hotel. It took us about an hour and a half to drive there. At the Friendship Hotel we got into the official bus to drive us back north to the dinner at The Great Hall of the People. This was another 20 minute drive back tracking during which all traffic was stopped for our bus to pass. We were not allowed to bring any electronics into the Great Hall of The People – a pity as the building is really impressive. I wish I could have photographed it. We sat at something like table number 105 which put us around the middle – there were a lot of tables – it is a GREAT hall! We were told that everyone was to sit quietly and wait for “the important people to arrive”. I couldn’t believe it – people sat quietly for around 15 minutes until apparently “the important people” arrived. I couldn’t see anything. Everyone stood. There was music of pomp and circumstance, there were speeches in Mandarin I couldn’t understand, then we were served a not very good meal. There was no lingering. Music came on. I assume “the important people” walked out, then there was an indication that everyone else was to leave. Back to the buses. It probably took 45 minutes just to get all the buses loaded and out of The Great Parking Lot. It was made very clear that we were not allowed to just walk out of the gate and get a Didi (a taxi). We had to leave on the official bus – going 20 minutes in the wrong direction – stopping all traffic and causing amazing grid lock throughout the city. Before getting onto back onto our school bus heading to Shunyi (the neighborhood we live).

Dan and I before getting on the school bus to head to the dinner.
The school leadership about to board the bus

Dan went directly to the airport after the dinner – don’t ask him about it unless you want to hear hours of how fabulous business class is on Emirates and how he hung out at the bar lounge on the flight.

Morton and I left the next day and did not go to the bar on our flight – there was none.

We popped into New York where I was so happy to catch my friend Manju showing her work at the Affordable Art Fair and to get together with my Art Luck gang to make some art. – always some of my favorite evenings!

We spent a night with Jeanhee, Luke and Chiara before Dan, Morton and I head up to Boston for a couple days with Celia, my brother Elon and cousin Jane. Sadly no pictures of Elon or Jane, but it was lovely seeing them. We had a lovely time hanging out at Jane’s house and we went to Rosh Hashanah services with her and her daughter Dora.

We got to see Celia’s new apartment, her work. We rented Boston’s Blue Bikes, their bike share, and explored the city for a day.

Morton and Dan at Celia’s work in the media center
Thrift booking
Going to the amazing Mapparium at the Christian Science Tabernacle.

Unfortunately the boys had to leave after a couple days and head back to Beijing. I stayed a couple more days getting in more time with Celia and Elon, thrifting, going out to eat, and going to see a movie.

How could Celia and I pass on these glasses?

I ran down to Philadelphia to pick up my mom and Bev. We spent a lovely ten days at the beach.

How could we pass up an opportunity to play Headbanz?

Judd and Ilie came to visit for a couple days and I even slipped in a couple tennis games.

My flight left from NY at 2:30 in the morning, so I went up to Brooklyn for the day. I met Herb and Fumiko at the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens for lunch and a walk and then caught the Brooklyn Artists show at the Brooklyn Museum with friends. I had dinner with Chris and Anita before heading out to the airport for the long flight back to Beijing.

Herb and Fumiko at the Botanical Gardens

Summer

Currently on plane heading back to Beijing. Sitting in a middle seat between two people I don’t know. Morton in row behind me. Boarded around 3am in the morning. Can’t sleep without leaning against a wall or someone I know – so about 1/3 of the flight through and I’m the only one awake in my section of the plane. My back is killing and I’m very cranky. . . . 

Thought I’d work on my summer update. 

The summer was mostly a lovely blur of spending too brief times with people I love and playing tennis at the beach. After we flew into JFK late night in late June, we checked into an airport hotel. Dan got up very early to catch the first ferry out to The Pines on Fire Island to catch up to his college roommates get together. 

A couple hours later Morton and I headed into Brooklyn to drop our bags at Anita’s and meet up with friends. Anita and I  went into Lower Manhattan and met Jeanhee for a lovely breakfast and short stroll – checking out Anish Kapoor’s newish New York Bean Sculpture

Afterwards Celia and I strolled around Lower Manhattan stopping to grab what was breakfast for her and lunch for me.

We checked out the Andy Goldsworthy Garden of Stones installation on the roof of the Jewish Museum – which I hadn’t seen since it had been recently installed in 2003. It has grown so much and is amazing – these trees growing out of boulders.

After dropping Celia at work, I met up with Anita at the Joan Jonas exhibit at MOMA before heading to Susan’s for Art Luck – which is always a highlight. Susan made us a lovely meal and we made some silly collaborative collages.

The next morning I took the train down to my mother’s. I helped her pack and the next day she, Bev and I headed to the Jersey shore. Dan and Morton met us there the following day. 

I spent the next few weeks there playing tennis and relishing the company. Judd came every weekend – which was so great (although sadly not documented). I am already missing him. Finn and Morton got jobs there for the summer – Finn at a coffee shop and Morton both at a deli and at Hartland Minigolf. Wonderful friends passed through (also mostly undocumented): Dave, Val and Danny came for the Fourth, Luke and Jeanhee soon after, Samantha and Jonathan, Rohan and family, my brother Elon and his friend John, Celia passed through a couple times, Al and Gwen, the Mundheims, the Cohen, Dan’s brother and nephew ….it was wonderful.

Bev and Mom at the top of the Dunes

Dan and Dave manning the boat.
Cousins antique shopping
Silly picture waiting for bus back to NYC

Dan spent a week or so and then headed down to DC for a work conference and to meet up with some good friends.

Later in July Anita and I took a few days to check out the Upstate (NY) Art Fair. We had such a great time. We saw some great art and checked out some really cute  towns. 

The first night be stayed at our friend Manju’s house to check out her show for the second year. Again — it was really fabulous – definitely one of the best shows in Upstate Art Fair. And it was again so lovely to spend a night with Manju and Stephen, enjoying their company, their unbelievably lovely home and eating great food with them.

Anita wearing cape made by artist Michael Sylvan Robinson at the Barn on Berme
Not the best photograph but beautiful piece by Manju Shandler

Another trip highlight was getting up to Kinderhook – which was such a nice town and seeing the Nina Chanel Abney show at Jack Shainman’s The School – an old school he has turned into a gallery/museum. The show was fantastic – as was the food at the two cute cafes we went to.

Sculpture by Nina Chanel Abney at The School
Painting by Nina Chanel Abney at The School
Celebrating Anita’s birthday in Hudson, NY

We rushed back to NYC for me to meet up with Dan’s family reunion in Manhattan. Was too quick – but so lovely to catch up with his family – some of whom I hadn’t seen in many years. Dan organized a lovely sail up the Hudson on our friends’ Sarah and Sven’s boat and a second sailboat.

Guys golfing
Cousin reunion
Family reunion on sailboat

We returned to the beach for Dan’s final week. His brother and nephew, in from Japan, joined us down there for a few days. On Dan’s final evening Dan, his brother Dave and I participated in the Barnegat Light Mile Ocean Swim race. The ocean was unusually calm – which was lovely. And it was amazing to see the hundreds of swimmers setting off in the ocean. Dan headed back to NYC that evening to catch his 2:30am flight back to Beijing.

Dragging Ty behind boat

Morton and I stayed a couple more weeks – which went too fast. 

My brother  Aaron came down for our last week with Tanja, Brigita, and Brigita’s friend. And Judd’s daughter Grey stayed that week to hang with the girls. It was so nice to be with them. 

Grandma and Finn at his work

Morton did his annual LBI mini golf marathon on one of the last days: biking the 18 mile island, stopping to play all of the 11 mini golf course on the island. I joined him for the first two and last two courses. 

Got Mom out for a little clothes shopping

Morton and I drove my mother home and spent one night with her. It was very painful to say goodbye. The next day we headed back to NY crashing at Anita’s for one night, trying to get as much Celia time as possible and getting in dinner with Jeanhee and kids, finally ordering a new back door, and ending our time with a lovely dinner in the back driveway with Chris, Steve, Anita, Celia, and Morton. It was a perfect send off. Now if I could only sleep! – I think I have about 9 1/2 more hours!

Spring to Summer

In April, the printmaker Gordon Novak flew into Beijing to work with my friend and artist Wang Xin. Gordon established the art residency that I visited with Wang last October. I went to watch them work one afternoon. It was fun to see a different part of the outskirts of Beijing where some artist studios have settled. Xin rented a print making studio, and it was so interesting to see how they were making the prints. It was more of a group dance than any printmaking I’ve seen before – so much directed improvisation with many people around the large screens being directed by Gordon and Xin but also being given leiway. They reached a snag when they realized a couple of the screens were printed backwards, but eventually the prints turned out beautifully.

Celia had her first birthday without us. We sent digital birthday signs – waking up to a kitchen full of silly birthday signs are a Fischer family tradition. Unfortunately it was her finals week at college – but she went out to dinner with a group of friends and had a really nice time.

Two days later she finished her first year of college. She packed up her belongings and Uncle Elon came twice, picking up her stuff and schlepping it to his house to store for the summer. Celia then jumped on a train to go visit her cousin Zach and his girlfriend in Rochester for 5 days or so before heading to NYC for the summer.

Morton and I played squash in the clubhouse by our house. On our way out I ran into a guy who works at the spa there. They are always trying to get me to try their “Anti-aging body self repair health cabin”. He told me they were giving free trials. A couple days later, feeling very achy from over tennising, and having a little time, I decided to try it. I went over that day. They put me on to the flat bed and, like an MRI, the bed moved into the “cabin” with my head sticking out. The machine started warming my leg. The technician – whose English was very limited – explained to me that I was being warmed by the inside and it wasn’t sweat coming out from me but someother kind of liquid (that I didn’t get). At that point I became a little concerned I had just agreed to be microwaved. Was it crazy I was allowing them to put me in this machine which I have no idea what it does? The technicial looked at the screen and told me the machine says my health was excellent but my energy level is extremely low – maybe from poor sleep? With multiple visits, the machine can fix that. After 20 minutes or so, I got out of the machine. They then hooked my nose up to breathe higher concentration of oxygen and drink high oxygenated water (?). On my way out they really wanted to sell me a package to use the machine but I wasn’t immediately feeling the healing powers or understanding the science, so I thanked them and left. A Chinese scientist I play tennis with explained to me the “Health Cabinet”has something to do with the magnetic field around the earth and harnessing that power -but I still don’t get it. He sent me an article. I think I still need to read it but often translated Mandarin into English is confusing when you get beyond, “Do you have that in a smaller size”.

A couple days later Dan, Morton and I went downtown to meet friends for an early birthday dinner (mine). They live in a newish highrise building right by the old hutong areas of Beijing. Their apartment is lovely and our friend Michael showed us some of his artwork before we left for dinner at a quaint restaurant in the nearby Hutong. After dinner we strolled though the old windy streets on our way to their apartment for dessert. It was a lovely evening.

Mother’s Day was the next day and I had decided I wanted to go out to an area called Shouyuan – an area which old industrial buildings were repurposed for the Olympics. I ordered a bike rack for our car and I drove us about an hour to this area where we spent the next few hours biking around. The architecture was amazing and it was so funny to see the Big Air Ski ramp. I always picture it on a mountain – but here it’s just in the middle of this developed area with stands for the fans built all around the base. Hard to believe the skiers don’t regularly go into the stands.

We found a fancy over priced brew pub open and went into eat. Just as we were sitting down Dan and I got texts from his assistant saying we had to move the car. Apparently I was parked illegally. Hard to understand who saw the car, looked up the license plate, called the school – which was closed – somehow got hold of someone there who got hold of Dan’s assistant who texted us to move the car. . . Crazy. I ran over to where I parked the car. There was a yield sign but no indication that I couldn’t park the car where I left it – and there were other cars. 

That evening was mother’s day in the U.S. I put onto my mother’s digital screen a slide show of her from her entire life. Apparently she loved it.

The next day was my actual birthday. A friend asked me to play tennis. When I showed up many tennis balls came raining down from the court behind ours. A whole bunch of my tennis friends came running over to wish me a happy birthday. It was lovely. They donned me in a tutu and a special teeshirt and then We played a few hours of mixing doubles (where we change courts and teams every 4-5 games) and then they took me out to a lovely Chinese restaurant for lunch – with a fantastic cake that was only beat by the cake my friend Su-en bought me last year.

That evening Dan took me out to what he believed was, “the second best vegetarian restaurant in Beijing”. I complained about the “2nd best” but was assured we already went to the what’s considered “The Best”. Our driver took us downtown to a hutong where we had to continue on foot. We came to an almost non-descript door with the address on it. We paused but decided to go in. A non English speaking woman met us just inside the door. We thought maybe, possibly we were at the correct place. Luckily I had just been listening to a Chinese book where the dog was playing in the “yuanzi” – the yard. The woman was asking if we wanted to see the “yuanzi”. I didn’t really know where we were but thought, “of course”. She walked us into this beautiful old traditional home with a yard in the middle. We walked up onto a small viewing deck and looked over the neighborhood of the Forbidden City.

She then asked if we wanted to eat and she led us into a room with one long table set for two with a “Happy Birthday” sign on the wall. We were their customers for the evening.  On a blackboard was written what they’d be serving us that evening. Ends up it was not the “2nd best vegetarian restaurant in Beijing”, as it wasn’t vegetarian, but they were willing to adjust the menu to exclude meat. Dan and I decided that restaurant, Black Sesame Kitchen, is the “#1 restaurant in Beijing”. The chef cooks just beyond our table, with mirrors from above pointing down at him so we can watch all the action. Beverages are included in the price, so they just kept our glasses full. The food and service were lovely. Ends up the restaurant was established by a California born Chinese woman who is a food writer and relocated to Beijing for a while. She wrote a book about food influences moving back and forth along the Silk Road that I coincidentally read last year.

A couple days later Dan was invited to the local visa/immigration bureau to present them with a banner of appreciation. Morton left school a little early to join them. In China they love the banners of appreciation.

Later that day Lu Siqing, China’s premier violinist, came to ISB to preform with the kids. In China, being a classical musician means a lot. People know who the all stars are and it was a big deal to have him at the school. He had two sons who went through the school.

The following weekend we invited some friends over for a long over due dinner. It was a lovely evening with a great mix of interesting people. The weather cooled just enough that we sat outside for drink and hors d’oeuvres. One of our guests is Ukrainian. The Ukrainian ambassador had visited the school the day prior and given Dan a lovely candle for peace, so with our guest we lit it. 

The next day was the school Spring Fair. The opposite of last year when it was very cold and windy, this year the heat was intense. Dan always has to do the dunk tank – where kids throw balls at the lever and if they hit it, Dan gets dropped into a pool of cold water. Last year I was worried as he turned purple from the cold. This year hitting the cold water was a pleasure!

The next night a friend invited us to his company party on the eve of the big Beijing Yoga convention – a three day event with over a thousand participants. Dan tried out the Chinese version of the exercise “Mirror”.

As Spring moved forward, my tennis friends and I had a number of going away lunches for tennis buddies who were leaving Beijing.

And I got some momentum in my studio.

Celia finally made it to NY, rented a room from her best buddy Cody’s mom, and got herself a job as a waitress at a movie theater/restaurant. And then she cut her hair. 

The big Beijing Art Fair/Art Weekend opened. I went first to the main fair with a few friends and ran into a number more at the show and then we went to a satalite fair at a crazy fun and upscale department store. It was fun to walk around and look – but as at all fairs, lots of artwork that I’m not interested in, but you find some gems.

heading to the Art Fair (above) and below – crazy installations at the mall.

Graduation came a few days later. Not as sad for me as the last one, but Dan of course was fabulous and handsome.

The end of May I went with a couple friends to see a show of Yan Ping’s art. It was so uplifting and inspiring. Reminded me of keeping my focus on joy in my artwork.

On the final day of May, friends invited us to see a theatrical performance the Chinese Acrobats were putting on – the first performance for them of this kind – wiht a story and dancing. Visually it was amazing. The sets, the lights, and of course the acrobatic feats! The story was in Mandarin and we had trouble fully comprehending the details but it was based on a true story celebrating the lives of a father and son who were police officers and the father was killed during what we believe was a minority uprising of some sort. It was surprising to see.

Next morning  we headed up to friend’s country home by the Great Wall. Dan and I went up early and hiked along the wall, which was a lovely way to start the day. Then we headed to our friends’ home to shower before the party started. They have an unbelievably lovely home that was built in a traditional style. They had a house full of mostly foreigners, many of whom have lived in China for decades, and have lived interesting lives. They told interesting stories of the quirks of living in China all these years. – even just of dealing with the house: the property next to the house is town land and a farmer decided to start grazing his pigs on that land. The stench was so terrible our friends couldn’t open their windows. They eventually went to the town magistrate to negotiate a compromise with the farmer. They finally agreed to buy all the pigs and rent the land from the township so no other farmer could graze their pigs there and that’s the small piece of land on which the party tables sat. 

Before leaving for the summer, we headed down to see the artist James Turrell’s skyscape which is down next to the Forbidden City. It’s next to an old traditional temple. When we arrived early we found by the temple is a lovely tea house and wine bar with mats outside for visitors to recline and relax and a misting awning to keep away the intense heat. It was a lovely place to sit. we got drinks and enjoyed the serenity. 

After our drinks we crossed the path to the James Turrel install. We entered a half hour before sunset, as instructed, into a smallish open rectangular room with yoga matts on the floor and woven pillows on the outer edges of the room. We choose two, and lied down, looking at the rectangular opening in the ceiling out to the sky. The room was dimly lit and the lights would slighly alter color. Looking at the ceiling as dusk fell, with the interior lights changing color slightly, our eyes perceive the sky as crazy intense and different colors depending on the interior light. It was mind blowing! It felt like a trick but every once in a while a bird would fly across the sky – stunning us into the realization that we were actually looking at the sky.

When it got dark we walked to a restaurant nearby a friend recommended. Ended up being in a traditional hutong hotel with an open courtyard. It was lovely. 

A couple days later Morton left on a four day trip to Inner Mongolia. I don’t remember having trips like that when I was in high school! He went with three buddies (and another 40 or so high school students (picture below).)For the second to last week of school ISB offers experiential trips and events for the week. Pretty amazing. They had a great time hiking through grasslands, checking out old temples, and playing poker in their hotel room.

When I returned to the US in February, threatening letters awaited me for not filling out my jury duty questionnaire. I called them on the phone and explained that I live in China. They need very specific things officially translated for me to prove I live in China. Unfortunately almost all of the documents they need, we don’t have in China. A bank statement is something I do have but no idea how to get one so I went to the bank. After a half hour wait they printed out this long dot matrix document with the hole pulls on side from the 1990s. (Picture below). Even officially translated -there is no way this will be accepted as proof of my residence! Hopefully I won’t be sent to jail when I’m back in the States!

Just before school ended I joined a meeting with  the Chinese artist Wu Jian’an. His work is really interesting – and varied. One interesting project he has proposed to do at the school is have many of the community members (up to 2500!) make brush strokes. He then will cut the brush strokes out and collages them. This may not translate in words – but it’s really amazing. He had a couple of us at the meeting try it out.

A couple other big things worth noting: my niece and nephew graduated highschool. She in Half Moon Bay, CA. He in Washington, DC.

We flew out of China after school on the last day of school. Been here a couple days – dealing with Brooklyn house flooding and quickly catching up with friends. Morton signed up for three pingpong tournaments while in NYC. I am currently on a train heading to my mothers. Hoping to get her to the beach.

And a final tennis party as Irma is an amazing cook and to say, “goodbye” to Su-en and Jingyu who are moving to Singapore and Australia. We’ll miss them!

ADDENDUM: wrote this on the plane to U.S and on train to pick up my mom in PA. Finally getting this up. Will work on the summer probably on way back to China in a couple weeks.

New Year through spring break

After a teary good bye to Celia we settled back into our regular Shunyi Beijing life. I organized the first ISB Adult tennis mixer. We filled the 6 ISB indoor tennis courts, everyone brought way too much food, and had a super time playing tennis and getting to know one another. I borrowed a megaphone to keep everyone in line.

Some of my tennis buddies
Dan trying out my megaphone

Morton’s ping-pong season progressed. He went to Shanghai for a big tournament. They were outplayed, but as Morton’s a first year high school student, playing on the varsity team, he should feel pretty good. At the end of the season the coaches honored him with a big award for his hard play and for the impressive improvement in his game.

Morton at table tennis competition in Shanghai
And winning team award

For Chinese New Year we planned to stay in Beijing as China gets crazy crowded over Chinese New Year with 1.4 billion Chinese traveling to their home town. At last minute I decided my mother seemed like she could really use a visit and I’d also love to see her. I bought a ticket and then thought I should plan a quick trip with the boys at the beginning of the holiday before I left them for rest of holiday. I had heard someone at the school was connected to a lovely ski resort not too far from Beijing. Next thing, we were heading to Thaiwoo ski resort for a few days. The place was lovely, the scenery was stunning. The owner of the resort invited us to dinner and gave us a lovely tour of his education facilities. It was a great trip. For better or worse, and despite two days of private lessons, Morton was not convinced that skiing was the sport for him.

Beautiful expanse at the top

I flew off on the new direct flight from Beijing to Boston. (Direct, affordable flights from China to the U.S. are still very slow to return post Covid.) Elon and Anna put me up and I spent a couple days running around with them and Celia. I took Celia and a few of her friends out to dinner. It was so nice getting to know them. 

Sculpture in Boston Commons
Mural in Boston Public Library

I then jumped onto a train to NY for two days -(why didn’t I take more photos?). It was SO nice to catch up with friends and family. I met cousins Mitch and Leslie for lunch by the train station, had dinner with Chris, Anita, and Jeanhee in Park Slope. The next day I met up with my friend Manju to stroll in Chelsea before Susan hosted a wonderful Art Luck. 

Art Luck!

The next day, before running back to train station, I had a quick hang out with Steve – who told me the crazy story of our house being a historically famous chess club — who knew?? (Aparently just chess nerds – wink to Steve).

I met Celia on the Amtrak train heading to Philly which we took down to visit my mother. Celia stayed for a long weekend and I visited her for around two and a half weeks. It wasn’t my mother’s best period, but I was happy I was able to be with her. Judd ran up for a quick visit while I was there – which is always so nice. And on my flight back I spent the night in San Francisco, catching up with Aaron and family.

At Mom’s new apartment

While I was gone the boys kept busy: They took a hiking trip up an ice river at Baihu. They went to Grand Canal Museum, and they went to a hot springs hotel a couple times. Right before I got back Dan went to Xiamen to catch the CBA Allstar game. Don’t ask me who won (or played for that matter!)

Boys hiking up the frozen river
PIngpong style

Other noteworthy things since Chinese New Year and before spring break: 

Dan went to Korea to look at Korean universities where ISB sends most of their Korean graduates. While there, he met with a number of these Alumni. Dan was wowed by these universities – both by the amazing schools and by their shockingly low price tags.

A friend of mine caught Dan playing Gaga ball at school (and he says he works so hard!)

Dan playing Gaga ball

My friend Dong took Lisa and I out for a couple of her fantastic exploration of Beijing and vegetarian Chinese meal.

We stopped at The Catholic Zongjiaoqu Church
The artwork and stained glass were made to reflect China – pretty unusual

Dan joined a few friends of mine at an art opening and then we stumbled upon a show of Liu Qinghe’s work which I loved!

Dan at an art opening with me in Beijing’s 798 art area. I’m in back talking with friends and the artist

Morton and I made an excellent apple pie.

Milo took some naps.

(Someone else might have too!)

And just as Morton and I were departing for Spring break in Guilin, Dan ran off to Shanghai to collect an award for ISB being the top International School in China award and then back to Thaiwoo to give a talk to an educational conference. 

Dan talking

Morton and I flew down to Guilin and spent the day exploring Guilin City. I had taken a boat out of Guilin with my parents and brothers back in …. Too many years ago to admit.. but I don’t think we saw the city or area around – just the amazing karsts that the area is world famous for.

On Elephant Hill in Guilin City
More exploring of Guilin City
Guilin City – an underwater tunnel allows visitors to get from this pagoda to the one in the background

We picked Dan up at the airport that evening before heading down to the outskirts of Yangshuo which is an hour or so south of Guilin. We were all awed. Our hotel was nestled between karsts and the Yulong River. The landscape is nothing like what we’ve experienced before – being surrounded by the mountainous forms that go directly up from where we were standing and then quickly come back down.

Walking along river in Yangshuo
Along River in Yangshuo
Morton found the best way to get around Yangshuo

We spent four days exploring and enjoying the area – by bicycle, motor bike (morton in a side car), by bamboo raft, by cable car and by rock climbing.

Only one way nearby to get to other side….
Dan working hard on a bamboo raft
Morton and I working hard on the bamboo raft – amazing views!
Biking up the river someone was offering archery. How could we resist?
Stopped and bought lunch from this lady
heading back downriver towards our hotel

One day we took a cable car up Ruyi Shan (Mountain), hiking (?) on a walkway and walked on a glass bridge. A bit cheesy but the views were overwhelmingly stunning that the gimic of the bridge didn’t even dent the experience.

A bridge connecting two karsts
Another view of that bridge!
Glass bridge below
Me on the glass bridge (it is a little freaky)

That night we went into Yangshuo City and saw  Zhang Yi Mou’s performance on the river. It wasn’t quite as amazing as his Olympic opening ceremony – but it was so beautiful seeing this performance on the river in front of us with the scenery being lit up and the “dancers” floating on the river. 

Our last night in Yangshuo we went back into the city for dinner. We went to an Indian restaurant that preCovid was written up as nightly having an hour wait. Dan called ahead and made a reservation. We showed up and were their only customers until another couple showed up. The owner was lovely -but it’s been tough on businesses.

In front of Yangshuo Indian restaurant

Morton and my plans for the last couple days fell through at last minute so we scrambled and booked a hotel in Xingping Zhen- another town in the area about an hour north of Yangshuo.

Roof deck of our Xingping hotel had a mirror so you could take this icon photo
Morton and I checked into our hotel to find we had reserved a “Family Friendly Room”

Dan drove up with us then jumped in a train first to Guilin City and then down to Hong Kong to meet his brother for the Hong Kong 7’s – a rugby tournament.

Dave and Dan on top of Hong Kong
D & D at the Rugby tournament

Morton and I spent the next day and a half exploring Xingping Zhen between incredible downpours. The views were AMAZING but we had to cover our ears as it was Tomb Sweeping holiday and everyone was constantly shooting off fireworks at their ancestral tombs to keep away the bad spirits. It was VERY loud! The first afternoon we took a boat across the Lijiang River to go up XingPing Mountain – which was not very challenging but the view was astonishingly beautiful. Once we got to the top we couldn’t believe the tiers of lookout decks which were flooded with Chinese vying for the best viewpoint to take their selfies. It was so over the top it was funny.

View from the top of the mountain
There are way more decks and people posing than you can see – I was mostly down before I thought to take this.
Of course I made us join in!
Boat we took to and from area where lookout was
Morton was thrilled for me to take his picture on the boat!

That afternoon we wandered around the town and in the touristy area Morton found a place that sold home made super yummy yogurt. He got his with Oreos in it – can’t beat that!

The next day we took the obligatory picture with the view point from the 20 Yuan bill behind us – though we took it slightly up river from the actual spot as the crowds at the actual spot were crazy! Afterwards we took again took a boat across the Lijiang River, though a little lower down.

The chaos of people taking their picture at the actual spot the photo for the 20 Yuan bill was shot
Local boat to get to other side of river

We planned to rent motor bikes on the other side and explore. When we got to the other side, there was no where to rent motor bikes, which was very disappointing – until the downpour started a few minutes later. We paid someone to take us on their golf cart/tuktuk type vehicle to see a buddist nunnery I heard was worth seeing.

It was beautiful but the ride there was the best part. XingPing Zhen is a bit overrun by tourists but in this area was peaceful lovely scenery. The nunnery was down a crazy muddy road that I can’t believe the driver took us on. Twice we ran into other tuktuks (one each direction) and the path is only wide enough for one. Somehow we eventually were able to pass – each tuktuk finding spots they could safely edge off the road just enough. The nunnery itself was tiny and nestled under a cliff overhang. It was lovely.

The front of the nunnery
Beautiful and muddy road to the nunnery

That afternoon and evening Morton and I explored the beautiful outskirts of Xingping Zhen by foot before heading back to our hotel for the night and heading to Beijing in the morning. I had a little surprise when heading back to the airport in Guilin. Although on the map Xingping Zhen is much closer to Guilin city than Yangshuo so I thought it’d be a quick trip in the morning, there was no road, so we had to drive an hour or so back down to Yangshuo and then another hour or so back up to Guilin! Luckily I found this out in plenty of time so had no trouble making our flight back to Beijing.

HAPPY YEAR OF THE DRAGON!

This is our family Chinese New Year Video. Happy 2024! Made by Celia

Winter Vacation in the Philippines

Dan, Morton and I arrived in the Philippines and spent the evening in Manila before heading north. It was brief but we were impressed (overwhelmed?) by the traffic and the chaos of the city. It felt like there was no city planning, no city ordinances on what could be built and where. It felt like insane chaos – even the electrical wires hung in crazy disorder.

Not unusual wires. I saw even crazier!

The next morning we rented a car and spent a ridiculous amount of time trying to get onto the Skyway to get above the traffic and out of town but our GPS wasn’t working correctly and we kept missing turns. After quite a struggle we realized we were about to make another wrong turn. Dan pulled out of the turning lane and went straight. A cop pulled us over, took Dan’s drivers license and was saying something about our need to go somewhere on the 23rd. After passing him some money we were finally able to move on and get out of town. 

We drove north through lots of towns and villages. We tried to find a place to grab some food for lunch. Morton and I ran into a supermarket but only found a chocolate bar that was grab and go food. No yogurt or cheese or peanut butter or crackers. Lots of cup of noodle but no way to prepare that even if we wanted to . We bought a few things at a bakery that we weren’t thrilled about and then made it to Mt Arayat for a hike. It was nice to get out and see some beautiful views and stretch our legs but it wasn’t fabulous.

Hike heading up Mount Arayat on way to Mt Pinatubo

At the bottom we saw the park had a sign pointing to a pool. Ended up being a bunch of pools – one of which was at the bottom of a waterfall. Dan and I couldn’t resist – it was so lovely and felt great after hiking. 

Swimming area at bottom of waterfall

We then headed to a small guest house near the base of Mt Pinatubo. 

On the route we suddenly found our selves driving on these wide, well lit boulevards that were slightly overgrown in the middle of what seemed like no where. We saw one block actually had a couple impressive buildings on it – while there was nothing else around other than foliage.

Streets going no where in what is supposed to become New Clark City

Later we read up on the area. It is called New Clark City. After a number of relatively recent natural disasters in Manila, someone in the Philippines government developed a plan and got a bunch of support to develop a new city that is supposed to replace Manila but at this inland location. A bit of the most recent East Asian games took place in the buildings in New Clark City, but other than that its development seemed to be stalled. Very strange.

The next morning an obligatory guide picked us up in a very rough – McGivered together jeep type vehicle. The driver and guide drove us for about an hour over a gorgeous and surreal landscape of volcanic ash covered wide river bank valley. (Mt. Pinatubo had blown its top in 1991).

The jeep had to go through many rivers running through the valleys- it was nerve racking going down river banks and through rivers and then trying  to find ways to go back up.

A couple places we saw what appeared to be old car bodies half buried in the ashy sand. We conjectured how they got there – got swept up in the water when river was flowing heavily? Got stuck in sand and abandoned?… We later found out that once a year the U.S. military comes and does join training exercises with the Philippino military and the cars were put there as part of the training. 

Eventually the jeep couldn’t go any further and we continued up on foot. Apparently how far they can drive greatly varies season to season. The front of my old hiking sandals quickly blew out and I hiked on with them flapping from my ankles – we laughed that I had flop-flips. But then they flopped off – breaking off completely – leaving me to bare foot hiking  – which wasn’t so great . Periodically we’d hike by a stand that locals, who were seasonally living in the dried out banks , would set up. For what I imagine was a hefty profit (but was only a couple dollars) they sold me a pair of actual flip flops to wear. 

We eventually made it up and then down into the crater which is a beautiful lake. Locals were selling BBQ meats and cup of noodles. We hung out for a little while – the boys skipping rocks- when the rain started, we decided to head back down. 

The crater lake

On the way down we saw a helicopter approach to land in the middle of the dried out, lava dust filled, middle of no where river bank.  It approached them didn’t quite land and hovered as we drove by on the jeep. Very strange.

The next day we got into a different jeep in worse condition and headed out to a village a ways up and over the river bank. We stood in the back – looking over the driver, relieving our bodies of the bouncing seats. About fifteen minutes into the drive smoke was coming from under the dash. The driver pulled a jerry rigged wire that killed the motor. There was some looking at the engine, some starting and stopping of engine, then the driver decided to continue on. Didn’t give us a lot of confidence. We finally made it to a village and from there we hiked about an hour and a half to a tiny isolated village in the hills.

As we approached we saw farmers harvesting sweet potatoes and tilling the soil with an ox. 

Quick stop at the local 7-11 for snacks

In the tiny village we stopped at the store and bought some chips for Morton who had gotten grumpy when we realized we needed to hike in and out – there was no pickup in the second town – as there was no street in – just the path we walked. The town had a beautiful basketball court where seeing us sitting some young boys decided to play for our amusement. They played in their flip-flops- occasionally loosing one- but I was impressed by their ability to run in them.

After we got back from this trip Dan had read about “the largest water park in Asia“ in Clark City. We thought how strange the empty city would have “The largest water park in Asia”. Who would go there? Before heading out I pointed out to Dan that the water park was in Clark City not New Clark City. We were disappointed but decided to check it out anyway.

It was supposed to be about an hour and a half drive but typical of our driving in the Philippines experience,roads on our GPS didn’t exist or dead ended leaving us to back track.

Suddenly there was a fancy Swiss Hotel – seemingly in the middle of no where. And then a fancy looking Japanese hotel/casino. Then the water park next to a large fancy looking 3/4 done decaying hotel.

There were maybe 30 cars at “the largest water park in Asia”. We went to buy tickets and they told us there were closing a couple hours early – so we only had an hour and a half. We figured we’d made the trek so we’d enter anyway. As the park was greatly understaffed and under utilized there was a schedule which rides were open when. Despite the restrictions, we ran around and had fun. 

Afterwards we drove to Manila, dropped off the car and checked into the apartment with two bunk beds where we were spending the next two nights. I then ran back to the airport to pick up Celia. Unless one had a ticket you couldn’t go into the airport, so I waited outside at the crazy hectic airport until Celia arrived around 1:30 in the morning. I couldn’t believe how hectic the airport was at 1:30 in the morning. Dan read that Manila airport had been rated the worst airport in SE Asia so a few years ago they did a major renovation. Now it’s rated the 5th worst.

The next day I scheduled a bike tour of the old walled in neighborhood of Manila which the Spanish built and occupied with a moat around it. It was fun to explore and get a bit of history. 

Bamboo bikes!
At one of the gates into the Spanish Quarter in Manila

That evening the boys met a volleyball friend of Dan’s for a game and Celia and I went to a delicious vegetarian Japanese noodle shop.

The next day we flew out to Caramoan peninsula – a remote peninsula on Luzon island – the same island Manila is on. We took a quick flight to Virac where we jumped in a van to the other side of the town to where we jumped on a boat for a 45 minute trip to where we’d stay. It was a fun way to arrive.

Getting on the boat to go to Caramoan

We stayed at a very remote resort called Tugawe Cove. The first 24 hours we were their only visitors. It is a lovely resort that was built with the hopes of more visitors and now other than two weeks a year is only open on weekends. It was under cared for and the few lovely employees were not quite winning the battle with nature that was fighting to regain the land. The place is on a steep hill. Our accommodations and the restaurant were at the top. The beach, at the bottom. The first 24 hours there was a good amount of rain and I took quite a fall on the cement, moss covered steps as I was going to complain about having no water running in our bathroom. But as the sun arrived we didn’t mind as much about the electrical outings and we learned to request special food accommodations to make food we liked. The views were stunning and we spent our days snorkeling, doing a little kayaking, and playing billiards. The first night we were there the staff were having their Christmas party – which was odd to have while we were there- but was fine. 

Celia’s tough life on Caramoan island
View down to beach on Caramoan

The second day after the beach activities we took a short hike up to a light house above the resort.

Up above where we stayed

We could see from there a neighboring village.

Looking down to village only accessible by water (and, we found, bush wacking)

The next day Dan and I paddled out to near the village and thought we’d hike there later with the kids. That afternoon we headed out. The path we took ended at the ocean a bit before the town. We ended up bush whacking for a while before finding our way.

Finally made it out of the bush and into the town

When we finally arrived it felt a bit uncomfortable four white foreigners emerging from the jungle but as we walked around kids ran over to check us out and people said hello.

Obligatory snack stop

We stopped and bought some snacks to taste before  heading back to the shore. We asked a man arriving in his boat if he’d drive us back to the resort – which we were quite grateful he did. A boy swam in the water to help the boat get off shore.

Our ride back to the hotel

A couple days later we headed back to Manila. There was only an early morning flight a couple days a week so we had to leave at 5AM to catch The boat to the van to the plane. 

Arriving back to neighboring island for flight back to Manila

We had to spend another night in Manila as there was only one flight out for our next destination. Dan booked the Fairmont Hotel – which was a completely different Manila experience- it was lovely -upscale and connected to- an expansive also upscale – mall that had restaurants more to our taste. Morton was desperate for clean clothes so we dropped his clothes at a laundromat. Both kids had run out of their prescriptions. I figured it was worth trying to get a pharmacist to give them to us without a prescription- though I thought the odds weren’t good. I was wrong – No problem. Crises averted!

We had a couple nice meals, used the hotel gym and pool and flew north the next morning.

AHHH! Civilization!

Dior tree decoration in fancy Manila outdoor mall

We flew to Cauayan and then planned to make our way to Batad – supposedly one of the most beautiful rice paddy areas in the country- which one could only get to on foot – no road. We struggled for a while seeing if there was a way to rent a car or hire a driver – and debating which made the most sense. Unsure, we took a ride to where the road to Batad ended.

Out of car, starting to head to Batad for brief paved path part

It ended up being much further than we expected but once we hiked in – we were not disappointed. The scenery was stunning. We had a simple but good meal on the porch of our guest house overlooking the rice fields. The owner was lovely with her dogs and three year old son toddling around. We were saddened to hear that the famous waterfall there was shut down as a couple tourists that day had fallen to their deaths. That should have made us more nervous for the next day.

The next morning a guide picked us up and took us on a hike through the rice fields. Every inch was stunning – but the hike was crazy unsafe – hiking on the edge of drop offs and climbing up walls with tiny protruding steps.

View near our hotel, Batad proper below
Downtown

The main town is at the bottom of the valley. We decided to have lunch there. After our lunch, we saw outside the church someone had set up a volleyball net. After hiking the crazy steep hike back up to our boarding house, and a little rest, Dan talked Morton into going back down in hope of finding a volleyball game. They went down and played for a couple hours. They had a great time getting to know some of the locals. Dan was dying on the climb back but Morton apparently ran up. Nice to be 15!

Morton playing volleyball at the town church

Early the next morning Yaehel, the owner of the guest house drove us to Sagada- our next stop (again much further than we expected) – roads are extremely  curved and steep – with lots of dogs and Tuktuks getting in the way.

We pulled into a cute guest house, serving food on their packed patio and in their small “living room/lobby”. I tried to ask the owners about organizing tours in the area but was told I had to go downtown to “register”. We started walking downtown but quickly realized that although not a long walk, the crazy windy road with no where out of the road to walk was not a safe place to walk. We waved over a tuktuk taxi to take us into town to the tourist center. We registered ourselves (not sure if this is a leftover from Covid times, or if it’s making sure they don’t loose tourists on hikes). After registering we were told to wander down the street and there are many places to talk to about tours. The first one we found couldn’t help us out, but at a second one we set things up for the following day. We spent the next hour or two wandering around the town. Dan got a haircut and we bought some snacks at a holiday fair. We spent the evening in the guest house lobby – sitting by the fire, ordering dinner and playing cards. 

Sagada haircut

The next morning the guide picked us up and took us on what ended up being a pretty crazy and fun underground cave hike/spelunking adventure. On the way into the caves, and later after this adventure, there are stacked and hung coffins – as the local people traditionally leave their dead relatives. 

Spelunking through tiny opening
Coffins hanging outside opening of cave

Kids were exhausted and wanted to chill out for the afternoon. The old folks took a short hike to a pretty local waterfall for a dip.

Due to a miscommunication between me and Google Maps, the trip back to Cauayan Airport was much longer than I had planned, so our Batad Pension owner offered to pick us up at 2 in the morning to bring us back to the airport. Definitely one of the more frightening experiences of our lives (all except Celia who smartly slept through it). The owner had driven 4-5 hours to get us, slept for an hour or so in her car in the parking lot, then drove us the six hours in pitch black on crazy windy streets with dogs often sleeping in the middle of the roads. Dan and I tried to take over the driving but she kept insisting she was fine (which she clearly was not). We arrived way too early to the airport, which was not yet open, but at least we arrived alive. We found a little something not too yummy to eat at a roadside restaurant/food stand, before waiting at the outdoor waiting area for the airport to open. 

We were VERY happy we were staying another night at the Fairmont Hotel. We needed a nice hotel after such an exhausting trip! We spent sometime at the pool before heading out to another nice restaurant at the fancy outdoor mall next to the hotel. It was New Year’s Eve, but only Celia lasted beyond 9pm. 

Again, the next morning we had to head out very early to the airport. We had to take two flights – the first to Cebu and the second to Camiguin Island, which is an island formed from one volcano eruption after another – the island has one of the most densely populated volcanic areas. 

Our hotel was high in the mountains, feeling like a lovely tree house. 

Our room on Camiguin Island
Morton on our deck. Small white dot in ocean is White Island, the first island we went to for snorkeling
Celia’s favorite spot

The next day we spent exploring the island, seeing a large waterfall, snorkeling around what had been an old cemetery, which after a volcanic eruption become underwater, checking out some old sites (a church, a tower, and some what I’d call warm springs). 

Quite a waterfall on Camiguin
Climbing an old tower on Camiguin

The following day we rented scooters and headed out on a guided hike.

Getting around Camiguin

Almost nothing do the Philippinos allow you to do on your own – you must register and have a guide. Our friends tried to hike on their own and were stopped. In any case, it was good to have a guide. The hike was straight up the volcano. The path wasn’t marked, only by seeing that possibly one other person had hiked this path, was it slightly clear which was to go. The hike seemed crazy unsafe and steep. Definitely not the “not too hard or long” hike we had requested. Kids decided to turn around mid mountain. Dan and I continued close to the top when I suddenly felt very ill. We thought it was heatstroke – but ended up being the flu. 

View on way up the mountain hike

The next two days we visited a couple near by islands for some snorkeling and resting on the beach. The first island was just a white sandbar off Camiguin. So beautiful. We were concerned on the boat over about the intense sun but once we got to the island we were able to rent an umbrella from the lifeguard. 

White Island, a sand bar island we can see from our hotel balcony

Our last day on Camiguin, we packed our bags early and went to check out an island off the south east coast. This ended up being the best snorkeling of our entire trip. Dan and I swam along with a large sea turtle for about half an hour before it ditched us and went on it’s way. It was an amazing way to end our Camiguin stay. 

Local shuttle

That afternoon we flew back to Cebu, then back to Manila. We got in late and stayed at a hotel next to airport. Dan’s friend Eric met him at the hotel billiards bar, Celia ordered room service, Morton played some video games, and I, sick with the flu, went right to bed and at four AM we headed back to the airport to fly home to Beijing. Great trip!

So happy to be reunited with Milo that they are starting to look alike!
Bliss!

Final push to Winter Holiday

Our friend’s entry into a Cookie Kurfuffle competition

December arrived and serious cold kicked in. 

Friday the first we made it back to Kehelat Shabbat. It was a special Shabbat as two members were getting married the next day – so family members came from out of China. I ended up sitting next to a man who had lived in China for decades but was in visiting from New York. At the end of the meal we made the connection that Judy Rossman, my mother’s friend from birth, had been his mentor at Community College of Philadelphia over thirty years prior. He was excited to hear about her and reminisce- such a small world!

The next day Morton had another Pingpong tournament and after was going to Beijing’s first BBYO event – where they were going bowling.

Dan and I decided to go out hiking around the wall. Our driver had the day off so I decided to drive myself – finally putting that Chinese driver’s license to use. Although it is nice to sit in the back of our van and let someone else drive, it was nice to have more control, get a better view, and get a better sense of Beijing’s layout. Once we got where we were going, we struggled finding the actual path but we hiked, got plenty of fresh air, and then went out for a lovely lunch at the base of the mountain.

After lunch we hurried home, to get dressed and then headed downtown to an Indian restaurant for the birthday party of my tennis instructor, Ganish. Was a fun party, though I was asked at last minute to give a speech – which is not my favorite thing. Dan was also asked to give a speech- possibly his favorite thing (just teasing him – but he is more comfortable with it).

The next evening we planned to go downtown to see an exhibit our friend organized and we had missed the opening. We were to meet our friends and then grab a quick dinner. I extended an invitation to another friend who owns the space the exhibit was in. She replied that she was sick but had organized a dinner for us in her entertaining space. She is the same person who had organized Celia’s graduation dinner (probably the best meal I have ever eaten). This meal was also – no quick grabbing dinner – but lovely. 

Soup was served through a shell.

That week was full of school/work, me frantically trying to figure out plans for going to the Philippines, doing a little artwork, playing some tennis,

Frisbee and volleyball, and my teaching Milo a video game(I tried to attach video but isn’t working). 

 Chanukah started and we lit the candles. Saturday evening Daniel was invited to light a candle at the Israeli ambassador’s apartment. Was a lovely event and was interesting to see where the Israeli ambassador lives after seeing the U.S. ambassador’s large, stately, walled off residence. The Israeli ambassador lives in a small apartment building with each floor housing different Israeli diplomats and the building feeling more like a kibbutz with kids running from floor to floor. Was lovely. (Sadly forgot to take a picture)

Heading to Israeli embassy Chanukah party and then to ISB faculty staff party

Afterwards we ran out to join the school’s faculty/staff party. We had to get there for Dan to say a few words, then to pick all the names for all the giveaways, and lastly to read a story with Longlong (the school dragon mascot).

Dan reading story with LongLong at ISB faculty/staff party

Starting that weekend and continuing the entire following week brought unusual amounts of snow – nothing to even compete with New York’s recent mild winters, but apparently plenty to panic about since Beijing isn’t used to the snow. Public schools had three days off! ISB was forced to close for a day. Snow days aren’t what they used to be though as the kids did online schooling! – what a terrible repercussion of Covid!

Our community club house dressed up the lions outside for Christmas.

We had a super fun tennis birthday celebration for my friend Irma with a Russian lunch to follow. (Trying to celebrate all  currently offending countries)

Friday night we had our second annual Chanukah blowout party. Was super fun, bringing a new dreidel winner – who (gasp!) isn’t even Jewish!

The big dreidel winner of 2023 Kriya

Saturday night, our Sunday morning as we were rushing around getting ready to get on a plane to the Philippines, I received photos from Celia who was at Dan’s family annual Chanukah party in Boston. Wish we could have been there – but so nice Celia’s friend Cody was able to join her.

Mitch and Cody at Cousin Jane’s Chanukah party

And lastly a picture Celia sent me.

Celia sporting the necklace she dreamt of and I had made for her for Chanukah.

End of November

Hoping to keep this blog from getting away from me, so hoping to get this month recap out as month finishes.

After Dave’s family left and Morton had his birthday party, Herb decided he wanted to see more of China. Dan was heading off to Hong Kong for a quick conference, so Herb decided to tag along. I quickly bought him an airplane ticket and booked him a tour for the day. The next afternoon he flew out with Dan. They got to the hotel late, had  dinner and went to bed. The next morning he went down to the lobby to meet his tour guide. Tour guide never showed up. People at the front desk told him they had a free shuttle bus downtown to a cable car that goes up a big hill in the middle of the city – so Herb took it. Pretty impressive – he’s almost 90 years old. He went downtown, found the line, made lots of conversation, took the cable car up, then walked up to a pagoda on top, bought lunch, found a bus down. Asked people for help to figure out what bus to get back to hotel in time to go to Dan’s banquet dinner. He had a marvelous time!

A couple days later Herb and I went to FaHai Temple. FaHai Temple has magnificent frescos that have survived from the 1440s. The emperor’s favorite eunuch at the time, brought together the best painters from all over China to paint these frescos – which apparently made it unique having all the best talent together. Apparently their paints were mineral based – which I don’t really understand what other paints are – but apparently this has caused them to last much better than their European counterparts. 

We bought tickets which allowed us to enter for 20 minutes into the dark room with a flashlight. Before entering the dark temple we were required to lock our phones into a small locker (so sadly no pictures). We had a great time though walking around with our flashlights looking at the painted figures, noticing the fastidious details, and trying to make out the stories they were depicting. A tour guide led the few others around talking in Mandarin and continually yelling at us in rapid Mandarin to “hush”. 

Herb at Fahai Temple. There were lots of steps!

A school parent invited Dan and I and another colleague of Dan’s to dinner at their house. The dinner was so lovely, with many small beautiful courses, but I want to show off this fish:

I think this speaks for itself! Unbelievable!

Other things going on at the end of November:

I met a couple friends at  the Beijing Botanical Garden, in which there is a temple with a reclining Buddha which my friend Dong thought we needed to see. We hadn’t seen each other since before the summer so we were more interested in catching up than admiring the Buddha, but the garden, although chilly , is really beautiful and we had a nice meal in the restaurant there. 

Afterwards I ran back to ISB to represent New York (but really Brooklyn) for the second year in a row at the faculty/staff international food event. We again served Bagels and lox. The bagels were certainly not up to Brooklyn standards but we are all just thrilled to be able to find some here. 

We went to a fabulous art opening of the artist Bing Yi. The work was beautiful and it was a lesson in marketing. She has created a character – almost an alter ego – that her work is telling the story of and she presents her work as if this alter ego made the work. SO MUCH EASIER to present the work as if it were someone else’s. SO SMART! She threw a large dinner after the opening a the Nue hotel, to which we were invited. It was a lovely evening.

Bing Yi giving us a fabulous tour of her work – telling the story of her fabled artist who “made the work”
Bing Yi performing at her opening

Now that the play Morton was working on is over he is full speed ahead with the ping-pong team.

Dad and his Ojiichan at his first tournament.

Herb and I finally got out to the Summer Palace. It was definitely NOT summer. We had a really nice time but it was cold and windy.

At one point we looked over and there were three lines of Chinese people. At first we couldn’t figure out what they were doing.

Should we be lining up?

Then we realized they were lined up to shoot a picture of the special temple through rocks. I don’t know why. I guess it looked amazing???? I didn’t wait in line to figure out.

The next day was Thanksgiving. Here it is a normal work/school day. We had originally hoped to celebrate it on Saturday but Dan and his dad would be heading to Shanghai for the weekend, so at last minute I decided we’d do a small thanksgiving. I ordered some chicken and vegetables to cook. The day before our friend Tiffany said she and her three kids would join us for Thanksgiving. Unfortunately we forgot to take any pictures, but we had a pretty mellow, but still delicious thanksgiving. It was nice to all hang out. I’d have to say my apple crisp a la mode with a home made butterscotch sauce was pretty yum!

The next Dan and his father flew off to Shanghai. They walked along the Bund (the famous Shanghai waterfront), and in the Yuyuan (rock) Park.

then they went to the Jewish Museum. The place was mostly empty except for a gaggle of high school girls. They approached Herb and asked if he was Jewish. They were writing a paper for school about Shanghai’s Jewish history and were excited to meet an actual Jew. They had lots of questions, which I hear Herb enjoyed answering.

Herb at Jewish Museum with gaggle of girls

Big brother David arrived that evening for a drink at the hotel bar dinner. The next morning they went up to the Oriental Pearl Tower (the third largest tower in the world) – which had a look out with a glass floor that apparently was pretty freaky to stand on.

On the glass floored observation deck
View from Tower

They then took at boat ride before Dan had to head back to the airport, leaving Dave and Herb for one more night and day in Shanghai.

Herb’s last few days in Beijing, he and I walked around an interesting art neighborhood called ChowYangDi. It has some narrow traditional Chinese streets which we wandered around – checking out a gift shop, a snack shop and then stopping into a drink shop for a hot drink.

This graphic was in the drink shop. What does it mean?

Then we entered the red brick area that AiWeiWei developed as an artist area, which has now mostly become for high end design studios and such but there are some lovely art galleries and we headed to an art opening I’d been invited to. We had a great time looking at the art, talking as best we could with people at the gallery and Herb raved about the “7-layer cake” he ate at the gallery that I recognized as coming from Sam’s Club.

Interesting artwork we saw at the show by Fan Zhongming

For Herb’s last night we took him out for Hot Pot, a traditional Sichuan dish in which you order a broth type base that is put onto a fire in the middle of the table and then you order food: meats, fish, vegetables, noodles to put into the broth to cook – it’s an activity and a meal. We had eaten this is in Chengdu. Chengdu is known for its fiery flavor. Here we ordered much more mild. I got a tomato broth and the men got a chicken mushroom broth.

Here he is preparing the noodles – stretching them out long before putting them into the broth. It was amazing to watch.

This morning Herb and Fumiko left at 5:30 to start their trip home – three flights! Beijing to Tokyo, with a seven hour layover, then to LA, with a quick layover, then to Tucson. Soon they will board their second flight. Our fingers are crossed it all goes as smoothly as possible.

SUMMER RECAP

The summer was both lovely and busy. Celia and I left Beijing during the first week of June, flew Beijing to Seoul, Seoul to JFK, then we rented a car and drove to my mother’s outside of Philly. We spent time with her, recovering from our jet lag, and working on her new apartment. Then we went up to NY to send Celia off to her Brooklyn high-school prom and for me to catch up with my friends.

Celia and August heading to BPCS prom
Mom, Chris and Anita sending Celia off to the prom

June to July I mostly spent helping my mother recover from her surgery – a much bigger process than we had expected – but she made great progress and we finally busted her out of the care facility and got her to the beach.

Mom recovering and learning Racko

Meanwhile we were busy getting her new apartment ready for her to move in: picking out light fixtures, paint colors, flooring, etc. and negotiating the sale of her house. My brothers had been champs at working to empty the house of things she wouldn’t be bringing with her to the apartment. 

Celia got an apartment and a job canvasing in Brooklyn on gun control issues.

Celia hard at work

Morton and Dan arrived to the US a couple weeks after Celia and I and headed to the beach so Morton could look for a job before coming to visit my mother. He got some shifts at his dream job – working at Hartland Golf on Long Beach Island, and got a second job at the deli in Barnegat Light. They both were great!

What could be better than working at Hartland Golf?
Catching up with cousins

Mid July I snuck away for a few days to Upstate NY with Anita to check out some of the Upstate Art Fair and the show my friend Manju put on – which was so lovely! We had a wonderful time staying at Manju’s home.

Before heading back to the beach I spent some time catching up with Celia – going to the Brooklyn Museum. She wanted to see the Picasso show there – which was disappointing – but the African Fashion show there was fabulous. We went out to eat and made a few purchases at the Brooklyn Pop-up show outside the museum. All around a lovely day.

Brooklyn Pop-Up Shop Purchase
A major perk of being back in Brooklyn – catching up with best buddy Cody

Dan and Morton did the third rendition of their mini-golf marathon – playing every course on the island, biking from one to the other, in one day. Thankfully this year the wind agreed – pushing them in the correct direction up the island! I joined them for the last course. The perfect amount of mini-golf in one day for me!

Just after that, at the beginning of August, Dan had to head back to Beijing  (damn school to run!).

Dan grilling at the end of the rainbow
Dan getting in some kiteboarding
Paddle boarding with cousin Grey
Breakfast at Mustache Bills

Morton stayed to work for a couple more weeks before he too had to return to Beijing. I was a bit nervous, taking Morton to the airport to make the trip back by himself. My biggest fear was he’d fall asleep at the gate and miss his plane – which left JFK at 1:40 in the morning! But we spoke on the phone until close to his departure time. 14 hours to Tokyo, transfer with four hour lay-over there before his flight to Beijing, navigating immigration, to where Dan picked him. Pretty grown-up!

Leaving my baby at security at JFK

Judd and I played in the local beach tennis club tournament.(How do I have no pictures??!!) Judd made a sweep – winning the men’s singles, men’s doubles, and mixed doubles with me. It was so nice to hang out and play with him this summer! The women’s singles got cancelled as there were only two of us who signed up. My doubles partner Nancy and I came in second in the women’s doubles after Nancy had heart defibs and we had to force her to quit. But we had super fun playing together.

Women’s team tennis tournament.

Order of things is starting to get confused in my head but end of August brought many wonderful days of catching up with people. My friend Courtenay and her cute dog came to see Judd and I at the beach. I probably hadn’t seen her in …40 years? It was super fun to catch up. I snuck in a couple art making nights, art viewing trips and meals, and wandering the city with friends. It was all too brief but also wonderful getting to spend time with all my friends and family who I miss so much while in China.

Unplanned dinner uniform

While I was in Brooklyn, Celia was taking a trip with her cousin Zach and his girlfriend up to Montreal, stopping at Niagra Falls. Sounds like they had a blast.

With Zach at Niagra

I finished what I’d call my “Official Summer” going up to  Boston, spending a few lovely days with Elon, Anna and Celia and then moving Celia into college (tear). 

Celia’s dorm room
Got the swag – ready to do college

After moving Celia in, I quickly jumped on a train down to Philly to meet packers at my mother’s the next day. The next month was a blur. Tons of last minute packing and working to completely empty the house. Anita came down and was a major help hanging and positioning all the art work, and lifting our spirits as my mother and I were getting pretty tired – physically and emotionally. Judd, Finn, and Aaron came through as we tried to get everything moved in to the new apartment, cleared out of the old house, and help my mother get her bearings. And then Aaron drove me up to Brooklyn to have a really wonderful goodbye dinner with some friends and then bring me to the airport to begin the long trip back to Beijing, Dan, Morton and Milo (our cat).

Yunnan to USA

A definite highlight!

Soon after we returned from Yunnan a neighbor named Dana posted a picture on the neighborhood chat group of her patio which was newly planted with flowers. It made me really depressed about our patio  where the bricks were mud covered with not a flower in site. In the fall I bought some outdoor couches but looking at Dana’s picture made the idea of hanging out on our patio depressing.

My filthy yard

Another neighbor, Sara, told me she had a power washer. I thought that was a good place to begin. I quickly realized both that we have no outlets outside – so I had to also borrow a long extension cord – and that the spigot closest to where I needed to wash was broken and the other has a gerry-rigged hose – it isn’t threaded so someone had taken wire to attempt to hold the hose onto the spigot. I worked a while on the one area I could reach with the hose and then asked the management if they could have someone clean the patio as it looks as if it hasn’t been properly cleaned in years. The next day a couple showed up to clean. He was using a floor polisher and she had a Chinese broom – which is more for dusting off an area than serious work. It took them the entire day! They did a good job – but so inefficient!

Also on our patio are two sculptures. One is really large and is placed in what looks like possibly used to hold water and small fish but now it just fills with leaves and lots of dust (can be seen in back of picture above). I asked the management if it could be removed. The owners told them the sculptures cost a lot of money and were essential for the Fung Shui of the house. Ugh!

Dana gave me the contact of the flower/plant lady. She sent me tons of pictures of different flowers and plants to choose from. But I didn’t even have any pots. The whole thing felt very overwhelming. Dana offered to come over and give me her opinion – which I greatly appreciated! She suggested places I put pots, that I put astro turf around the trees, and moving our barbecue to a different location. I started collecting pots. I bought a few from neighbors who were selling theirs and then Sara helped me order some more pots online. I SO miss shopping in the U.S – both in person shopping and online – I know where to go and how to order online. I know neither here in China. People say buying stuff online is amazing here but for me so far it’s just incredibly difficult and frustrating. Ayi Ling helped me order some large flower boxes. They came in pieces that needed tools to be assembled – more borrowing of tools.

I called Dana’s “astro turf” guy – there is a person for everything in China! He quickly came out, took measurements and gave me a price. The next day he installed the astro turf. It sounds strange to put astro turf outside around our trees but it made the patio look so much better! So much cleaner! 

Astro Turf laid, and patio pollished

After days of hearing what Sara was doing in her garden, she had me over to see all the plants she had planted. I was asking her details about how she planted one of her plants when she said, “Oh, no – when I say I “planted” these – I mean I point where I want it and the gardeners plant it.” I laughed – so funny! Then she advised me, “If you spend more than 200rmb (a little under $30) the people who sell the plants deliver and plant them too. Make sure to insist they do that for you. They won’t offer it to you but it’s part of the deal”. Good to know.

I dragged my feet on ordering the flowers/plants. Felt so overwhelming ordering plants online. I drove out to see Dana’s flower lady in person – that was overwhelming enough. So much stuff – so hard to know how much I need. After a bunch of wandering I picked out some plants that I thought would look good together, plus some kale and mint. The proprietor told me she’d probably deliver and plant later that day. 

Later that evening, as we were finishing dinner, and the sun had already set, I assumed that they weren’t coming to plant that day. Then I heard a truck pull up.  So crazy. I turned on my phone light to direct and approve what they were doing. Hard to tell how it was all looking with just my phone light. I had them fill the “pool” below the large sculpture with soil and flowers. Despite their forgetting the yellow flowers I wanted, and planting in the dark, in the morning I was so happy with the way it looked. Such a nicer place to hang out.

Fung shui and planter!

So many other things were also going on during my patio craziness. Spring was packed full of end of year events:

Mid April ISB hosted the APAC (I think Asia Pacific Assoc. Conference) competition – in which similar schools from China and neighboring countries participate. The schools make a big deal out of it – and especially since these conferences are just starting back after a 3 year Covid break. Celia played on the soccer team. It was super fun to watch and I am so proud of her for going out for soccer for the first time her senior year. 

Opening ceremonies for APAC competition

My tennis buddy Coco (Gua Yan) threw a lovely dinner party for a few of us who play tennis together. — it’s funny, almost all Chinese have a second English name. They always introduce themselves with this name (such as my friend Coco). At a certain point this year it occurred to me that it’s weird I don’t know my friends’ real names. I mentioned this to my friend Jing Yu. I had just found out she had an English name after I had known her for close to a year and I had spent a long time trying to remember her Chinese name and the proper pronunciation. She then told me she doesn’t know many of her Chinese friends Chinese names either. Many Chinese people introduce themselves to other Chinese with their English names as well. Very strange!

Tennis dinner at Coco’s

Celia had the Senior Parade. It’s a tradition among the international schools when the seniors, about a month before graduation, dress in their cap and gowns, all the other students in the school and the faculty and staff and parents stand in the school halls and the seniors walk through the entire school and everyone cheers them on. It was super nice – but I don’t know why they school needed to get me started crying so far in advance of graduation.

Lining up for Senior Parade
After parade

A number of big art shows and fairs started back after years of hiatus. 

An art installation titled The Quantified Power by Mingzhu Zhang

The day after I finally finished my garden we had a barbecue and Celia had her senior prom! The prom was kind of a bust: it started at 6:00 and only ran until 9:00, mashed potatoes were the only vegetarian food Celia could eat, the time for dancing was brief and Celia was unhappy with the music the kid DJing played. But despite that Celia had a great time: getting her nails and make-up done and dressing up with friends and going out after the prom was a blast. Plus she looked beautiful!

About to leave for the prom

May 1st Celia turned 18! – the legal age of drinking in China – though no one pays attention to that. She went out with friends to the Chun Bing restaurant (very thin pancakes which you wrap around different ingredients) – that we went to in the hutong much earlier this year. As a family we went to a vegetarian Chinese restaurant (a rarity) and I ordered her an incredible strawberry cream cake that  my friend Jingyu had brought to my ladies tennis dinner.

Birthday celebration with Alisha

Quick highlights as this is getting way too long:

Mid May Celia and Dan went to Japan to meet up with Dan’s parents. Celia went for a week (as she was done with all her classes and exams) and Dan for a long weekend. Morton planned to go on a camping trip, so I invited a bunch of ladies over for my birthday. My friend Su-en brought one of the most amazing looking cakes I have ever seen.

Amazing crazy cake!
Birthday celebration dinner!

The school had it’s first Spring Fair in four years. It was super fun but the weather was cold and Dan turned purple doing the dunk tank!

Dan being dunked

Morton went to Gobi Water Town for the eighth grade trip. Despite his not wanting to go, I think he had a good time.

Morton and team mates making their raft

Dan and I went to see the premier Chinese violinist at the Egg (Beijing’s version of New York’s Lincoln Center). It was so beautiful and I was so impressed by how young the crowd was and how the audience really seemed to know the music – cheering when songs were announced. 

Violin concert at the Egg

Also note worthy: Celia’s friend Tommy gave Milo a new tie (he didn’t like it – but boy did he look cute!)

Milo in his new tie

And on May 27th Celia graduated highschool! Dan gave speeches:  at the senior dinner (putting pictures of her up) and at graduation when he directed the speech to her, and then presenting her with her diploma. After graduation a parent organized for the four of us the most amazing vegetarian Japanese and Chinese dinner in their private space. It was one of the best meals I have ever eaten. 

Hug as walking across dais to get diploma
Senior dinner speech with images of Celia
Family heading to graduation

After dinner Celia met up with many of her classmates at a club where some Canadian rapper played and then they ran down to Tianneman Square for the raising of the flag.

Before Celia and I ran off to the U.S, my friends organized a special tennis match for me and Morton had his 8th grade final dance. He looked so handsome!

Tennis match before leaving for summer
Morton and buddy Sam at Eighth grade dance looking dapper

Then Celia and I flew off – 1.5 hours to Seoul, 18 hours to NYC, then picked up the rental car and drove two hours to my mother’s in Bryn Mawr. Quite a trip!

Since being back in the US, Celia and I spent some time with my mother, adjusting to the time change and seeing Judd who came up. Celia went to her Brooklyn Prospect prom.

Celia going to her Brooklyn prom with buddy August

My mother and I also went to NY. We had Art Luck night – which was so great to get together with my art ladies after only virtual get togethers for the last year, had dinner out with some friends and went to some galleries to see some art. it’s been so nice to catch up!

Catching up with best bud Cody
Working at Inlet Deli
Ice cream on LBI
Working at Hartland Golf
Doing amazing after surgery – though her Racko skills need to honed
Working as a canvaser in Brooklyn fighting to get semi automatic weapons off our streets
Playing in a silly tennis tournament on LBI