Melanie Fischer

Although I was sad to leave everyone behind in the U.S and fly for 20+ hours, it was also really nice to get back to my three boys (Dan, Morton and Milo, the cat).

It was a brief flurry before heading back out to Japan. During this time, Morton showed me the new ISB golf similator – I think it only took us about 20 swings per hole. It’s amazing how long it can be to play 3 holes!

Dan and I got reaquainted with Celia’s favorite breakfast at Jamaica Blue, the restaurant in the complex we live.

And I went with some tennis friends to the China Open Tennis competition. We went during the qualifiers. Few people were there and great matches. Other than the extreme heat, it was fantastic!

We caught the Matisse show that got majorly delayed as the owners of the works in the show (museums, collectors) were hesitant to send artwork while China was locked down – so the show was delayed a few years – to a time when I could see it – so convenient!  

And I was busy planning for our trip to Japan!

At the end of September, after I was back for about a week and a half, we flew out to Osaka. We were supposed to head to Ikeda to see some family after getting off the plane, but at last minute, due to illness, plans were cancelled. I had always wanted to see Naoshima so decided to head there. On the way we had to go through Osaka, so we ran to a neighborhood that is famous for it’s anime as we knew Morton would love it! 

Then we continued onto Naoshima. 

Getting to Naoshima was quite a haul – taking subway to bullet train to local train to ferry. We had some time while waiting for the ferry and we were hungry so we went to a cute cafe/tiny hotel across the street from the ferry. We sat outside on the porch, music played, food was Western, and the vibe was lovely. Dan got talking the owners – they had lived in Brooklyn. So funny! It was a pleasant ferry ride to the island – we just wished it were light out so we could see the view better. Once we got there we realized we were on the wrong side of the island from where we were staying and no idea how, or even if it were possible to get a taxi. We dragged our luggage along – walking to the other side of the island for about 40 minutes. Morton found a 7-11 to stop at on the way – which helped a little. When we finally got to the Google Pin for where the guest house was supposed to be, we couldn’t find it. I called the guest house but the woman who answered only spoke Japanese and neither my English nor my Mandarin was any help. Dan used his “keep wandering in larger circles” method of finding something – and although I tend to insist asking for directions is a better method – this time his method worked out. The place was a traditional Japanese house with interior courtyard with shared bathrooms and tatami mats and futons to roll out. I booked it due to lack of available options but it was great. Made us feel like we were in Japan – and not in a hotel that could be anywhere. We had a nice breakfast in the central garden in the morning, which the owner was advertising as a “cat cafe” – as her cats were there – and “Cat Cafes” are the rage over here.

In any case, Naoshima is an island that was mostly a fishing village. As the population was decreasing, as the youth were leaving for the big cities, someone came up with using art to boost the economy. Yayoi Kusama’s works are the big draw but several beautiful, small museums have been also built on the island and “Art Houses” in which artist have done installations. Dan’s brother David helped us reserve bikes, but when we went to pick them up the next morning, we eventually found out that he rented them from back on the other side of the island where we arrived. This time we figured out the bus. Much easier. And a good thing we booked ahead – all the rest of the bikes on the island were already rented out. We were so glad to get on them and start our adventures around the island!

That evening we found a small restaurant near where we stayed. We thought maybe we were walking into someone’s house but once we walked in, a man came over and in broken English explained that we could stay if we wanted but we needed to be patient as he was doing everything that evening – waiter, matre’d , and chef all in one. Ended up wait wasn’t long and food was lovely. 

Next day we headed out to Kyoto – back on ferry then more local trains and bullet train. We checked into our hotel then rented bikes and headed to a temple that Morton wanted to see as some video game is based on it (no idea – ask him). I knew nothing of it but figured if he was interested – I was all for it. The biking gave us a great look through many neighborhoods on our way to the south east part of the city to the Fushimi Inari Shrine. Other than the video game (again, I have no idea), the shrine is famous for it’s thousands of vermillion torii gates. There is a path under them in which we hiked up for probably an hour and a half. Too many people and a bit anti-climactic at the top, but it was very impressive and beautiful, and there were interesting little areas just off the main trail.

On the way down we tried an alternative path that ended up being a lovely hike down through woods and then through a quiet neighborhood.

We became a little concerned we had gone totally the wrong way but we eventually found ourselves back to our bikes. We popped into a ramen shop before heading back to the hotel. We then headed to the hotel’s onsen (hot spring type bath) – I to the ladies, they to the men’s. It was lovely.

Morton decided to take advantage of the hotel and stay in while Dan and I headed out to find dinner. We quickly found a cute restaurant in which the beer was served with either tomato juice in it – or something else I can’t remember. It was fine but we definitely decided we like our beer neat. 

The next morning we took another train, bullet train, train trip to Shimoda, where Dan’s brother Dave and family live. Shimoda’s a beautiful beach town. Dave met us at the train station, took us out for a delicious Japanese fish meal. We then went to their lovely home, met cousin Lina for the first time (who just had her 5th birthday), and caught up with Megumi and Ty who I hadn’t seen in years. 

The next day, while the kids were at school, Dave and Meg took us on a tour of the beautiful area and we stopped at a super cute Onsen – basically in a small green house with plants growing all around.

The next day Megumi and I went out for a lovely run – Megumi generously tolerated my slow pace and short distance. Then Dan and Dave headed out for a long and apparently fantastic bike ride while Morton napped in the yard. 

That afternoon we went to a cute place for lunch and then decided to walk around the tiny town of Shimoda. Morton spied a shop full of old film camera. Megumi – acting as our translator – asked for Morton about the price of one of the cameras. They guy said they were just for display he didn’t actually sell cameras, but soon enough he was taken by Morton’s interest in them and sold one to Morton for close to nothing. Then we asked about film – a roll was almost the cost of the camera! – but Morton was so thrilled. The rest of the day was spent going over some basics of using an SLR film camera.

The next and our last day in Shimoda we went down to a local beach spot and spent most of the day there, swimming, taking the stand-up paddle board out, walking along the ocean front and eating at the small cafe there. 

The next day – back on train: local, bullet, local to Tokyo. We spent the day, checking out a couple neighborhoods in Tokyo. First together and then Dan and Morton headed to a tech neighborhood that Morton had been dreaming about but found pretty overwhelming. and I caught up with college friends Aya, and Ayaki. It was so nice!

The morning before we left we checked out of our hotel and wanted to get breakfast. Dan saw there was a Bubby’s – a New York restaurant we’ve been to many times. We decided it’d be fun to go there. It wasn’t up to the NY standard of the restaurant but it was fun to go and felt like a little touch of home. 

Got back to Beijing to a flurry of activity: Morton’s volleyball season in full swing. The school’s international day, I played in a silly tennis tournament mixer, we were given tickets to the opening game of the Beijing Ducks (of the Chinese professional league). Each team is allowed to have two foreign players on their team but only one can be on the court from each team at a time. It was fun to see but the level of play is not yet near U.S. standards. The foreign players were mostly able to dominate.

A friend named Xin invited me to join her for the weekend down in Jingxian (a couple hour flight)at an artist colony there, in Anhui Province. She had participated before Covid and this was the first time they had started it back and she wanted to see people there. It’s in a lovely hot springs hotel. She had two Croatian friends who flew to Beijing and we all went together. At the airport we went through security and then headed to the gate. We were early and were hanging out waiting for boarding when a guard came up to Xin. They asked if she had lost her computer. They then handed her her computer which she didn’t realize she had left at security. We foreigners were amazed that security had found a computer and must have quickly checked the security tapes, saw who left their computer, identified who she was and looked up what flight she was getting on, and found her among the people at the gate- all very quickly. We then boarded a bus to the plane. Another security officer came to bus and up to Xin – this security officer had Xin’s make-up bag! We couldn’t believe it (plus she was very embarrassed!)

We spent the weekend meeting the participating artists, seeing their work and just hanging out. It was so nice to be back among so many creators! I wish I had knows about it to apply. Hopefully it’ll continue and I’ll have an opportunity. On the way back to the airport on Sunday we went up the famous Huangshang (yellow) Mountain. The scenery was stunning – but typical China attraction – SO MANY PEOPLE!. 

That weekend was Halloween (here people celebrate on the closest Saturday) Dan was in Bangkok for a conference and I was at the artist retreat. Under pressure Morton gave out candy. Luckily we can count on Celia to always do it up for Halloween.

The next morning, Monday morning, I went back to the airport to pick up Dan’s parents who had flown in from the States. What a trip for two almost nonagenarians! (Look it up! I think I learned that word from a They Might Be Giants kids song!). Two days later the temperature took a major dive and got quite cold (Beijing tends to have a week of fall and a week of spring) and Dave and Megumi and kids showed up for the week (I don’t think their arrival and the temperature drop are correlated, but maybe) Two days after their arrival, Meg’s sister and daughter came for the weekend. Lucky we have a big house! It was crazy but so lovely to have everyone together! We mostly just hung around, playing pingpong, sand karaoke, went to playgrounds, used the school facilities: playground, golf simulator, gym, rock wall…One day I took Ty out, who is twelve, and let him drive the TukTuk. That was pretty exciting for him. He was pretty good.

We did take one crazy trip with everyone to the Great Wall. It was quite a feat getting everyone there – we won’t forget it! For some reason I thought it would be easy as this one part of the Wall has a bus, to a cable car – but boy was I wrong! But it was an adventure getting everyone up and down in one piece! Half of us took the “luge” down (check out the images from around last September when we took it) 

Tuesday the 7th was Morton’s birthday. A group of us went and saw the school production of Clue that Morton worked on the sets and props for and was working behind stage, and that night we celebrated his birthday. For him, no doubt the highlight was getting a ping-pong ball machine! (Other’s enjoyed it too!)

Dave and family spent their last day at the trampoline gym – not sure it’s listed as a Chinese Heritage Site, but I think it was a highlight for the kids. 

Sunday night Morton had five boys over for his birthday. They went to a place down the block for pool, darts and bar food then came home for mint brownies and video games. I think it was a success.